November 21-23Today was a holiday, so The Boy and I took a trip to Nagasaki. It was my first time to the island of Kyuusyuu and I have now been to all four main islands of Japan. The last place I need to visit is Okinawa.
Nagasaki is famous in America for being the second city to ever be atomic bombed. However, to the Japanese it has a much richer history. Nagasaki was the only port kept open during the 200 years during which the Japanese government closed the borders of the nation to contact with the outside. Only the Dutch were allowed to bring their ships into Nagasaki port for trade purposes. Prior to this it had been a thriving port and a city with many Chinese and other foreign inhabitants. With the influence of the Dutch (and Portuguese), it was also a Christian hub, where missionaries would attempt to convert the Japanese. Therefore it has a large number of churches. It was also the location of the crucifixion of the 26 martyrs of Japan when the Japanese government banned Christianity.
Saturday, November 21On Saturday morning we started our little excursion. I made us late for the train because I was trying to fix my internet…
We actually ran into Laurel at the station and we hung out on the ride into Kyoto. We shink’d over Hakata station where we then had to switch to a special rapid train. But, we missed it by 2 minutes. We didn’t check the schedule, since we assumed that the special rapid running to Nagasaki would come more often than once and hour…but it didn’t.
It was a long day of train rides, about 5 hours, but that isn’t too bad. The Boy kept saying how long of a trip it was, but I have noticed that Japanese people have a different conception of distance and time than most Americans do when it comes to traveling. To me five hours is a fairly easy distance, especially when you can just sit back and relax on a train.
We wound up arriving around 5:30 so most sightseeing places were either closed or closing. We were greeted at the train station by a giant blue Christmas tree.

After buying a tiny but useful guidebook, we decided to drop off our bags at the hotel and then head to Chinatown for some of Nagasaki’s famous Chanpon. The Chinatown was different from the one I remember visiting as a kid in New York. It was more touristy here. There were various shops selling souvenirs and a lot of different restaurants. The restaurant our guidebook suggested was very popular, so we had to wait a while. We wandered around the shops until it was our turn.

It was mostly cheesy touristy stuff, but I did find a ripped off copy of The Lion King...Except it was completely different. It's hard to see in this picture, but there is a tiger and a deer character...?

We were really hungry by this point so we ended up ordering too much food. I couldn’t finish it, even though it was really good. The Boy ordered the special large bowl so his came with a bit of shark fin in it. He let me try it. It didn’t really have much flavor but the texture was nowhere near as bad as I had expected. We headed back to the hotel after that.
Sunday, November 22Today was unfortunately very rainy. It was our big sightseeing day and we had no umbrellas. It was ok for a few hours but we eventually ran to the conbini to get one.
We started off at Dejima, which is the site of Nagasaki port. It is set up as a large museum. It was interesting to learn more about Nagasaki’s history and about the Dutch. The museum itself was a bit sparse, but I believe it is a work in progress. I was surprised to learn that at one point, due to Napoleon’s quest for empire, Dejima was the only place in the world flying a Dutch flag….interesting fact.
After Dejima we visited Glover Garden, which is the site of the home? of a foreigner who played a huge role in the Meiji Restoration in which power was restored back to the Emperor in the late 1800s. It was interesting but it wasn’t anything all that special. It was kind of interesting to see how foreigners lived in Japan so long ago. And there was a great view of the bay.
After Glover Garden we went to the Peace Park and Atomic Bomb Museum. They had some very interesting statues at the park. The main courtyard had statues donated mainly from Communist countries. I am not really sure of the significance of that. We both enjoyed the incongruity of having huge signs advertising Castella cake, which Nagasaki is famous for (introduced by the Portuguese), right behind the signs in the Peace Park.




The museum was not much different from the one in Hiroshima…just smaller. Nagasaki seems to handle that part of their history in a very different way. There were no English translations and I didn’t have the energy to really keep reading them in Japanese so I probably missed a little bit. But we were tired and hungry.
We hopped on the tram system (I do love trams…also it took me for ever to remember the name for them in English when The Boy asked me) and headed off to get some food. We decided to get Turkish rice, which I don’t think has anything to do with Turkey, but it was interesting…
We went to a cute café by the wharf…what is a wharf anyway? It’s really an odd word. But anyway, we got some Turkish rice, which was basically hamburger steak on yellow rice with pasta on the side. I dunno…apparently there are different versions.
We went back to the hotel and got some sleep to prepare for tomorrow.
Monday November 23The weather cleared up for today, which was really nice. We started off the morning grabbing some breakfast and then we visited the shrine to the 26 martyrs of Japan.

From there we saw a really cool looking church. It was decorated using plates and bowls and cups. It was reminiscent of Barcelona (never been, but plan on it).



It ended up being one of my favorite places we saw. From the church we could see this really odd statue of what looked like Bodhisattva standing on a giant turtle pointing at children.

We decided to go see what it was. It was exactly what it looked like.

After that we grabbed lunch at a Chinese restaurant that served sara udon (plate noodles). Basically it was thin crunchy noodles in Chinese style sauce with a bunch of toppings. The Boy got a huge kick out of how I picked out all the pieces of squid and octopus…Apparently I am like a little kid. Though I would never do that in front of any other Japanese person.
After we finished eating we went and bought a castella cake for later and got on the train for Yoshinogari in Saga Prefecture, an archaeological site from the Yayoi Period (3rd Century BC to the 3rd Century AD) in Japan.
The site was about 700 meters from the tiny train station. It was actually a pretty interesting park. I didn’t know much about the Yayoi Period, except the little I had studied it at school. There were no English translations so I had to try to read the Japanese, but it was good practice. Basically there were several replicas of homes and other buildings from the period, as well as a museum of artifacts.

It took us several hours to get through all of it and by the end we were kind of exhausted and my feet actually bled from all the walking this weekend, but it was a really fun day.
We skipped dinner so we ate the castella cake on the train ride back. It was nice to be heading home after such a full weekend. I was really glad we took tomorrow off so that I could sleep in.